Platzkart Adventure!

[peacetraveler22]

Many people often ask me "why Russia?" I can afford to travel to much nicer places and stay in more upscale accommodations, but to me there's no adventure in this. Complete boredom. With Russia, there's always something interesting! A complex puzzle to solve, new experiences each journey, and constant brain explosions and frustration with infrastructure and societal interactions as a whole. When I thought about visiting Kazan for a few days, there were two options to get there. Fly or take Russian Railways. I not only chose the latter, but decided to travel in a platzkart to get a true Russian experience. :) At first, I was a little nervous to ride the train dormitory style by myself. This uneasy feeling arose not from my own thinking, but from Russian friends when I posted a status update on Facebook that I would ride alone in a platzkart on the Railways. Responses included - "why?!?", "brave and wild!" and "are you crazy?" What did I think of the experience?

1. I think it's a good way for foreigners to travel if they wish to interact with locals, but not for comfort. The train from Moscow to Kazan was very old and shitty. Train number is 112мц. Avoid it! I'm not certain, but I think the final destination of the train wasn't Kazan but onward into the depths of Russia. The main problem for me is that it was a night train, and I was completely unprepared. Upon boarding, the lights on the train were out, cut on only for a few minutes when the train took off for the conductor to check tickets. After that, complete darkness. Most passengers immediately went to sleep and remained in silence all night. Besides the echoes of loud snores in the air, there was little movement or motion. No one to talk to, complete darkness, and zero outlets for phones or computers. For twelve hours, I sat in boredom, staring in blackness. I can't sleep in planes, trains, automobiles, or even a bed on most nights.

Salvation came in the wee hours of the morning when I encountered a handsome young man. At the sight of a young Russian face, there's always a glimmer of hope that the person will speak English. I asked him in Russian if he spoke the language, and his face lit up! Yes! For a few hours, we sat and chatted at the tiny table by my bunk. He had spent a summer in America, on the work/travel program sponsored by the U.S. government. Most important, he gave me food. I was starving, carrying with me no food or water for the long ride because I thought all trains had a dining car, where such items can be purchased. This train had nothing. No real food, only a dispenser for hot water. My new friend gave me a homemade meat pie and some instant mashed potatoes. Add hot water, and suddenly hunger pains subsided. So, I learned a proper lesson on how to travel on some Russian trains - bring boiled eggs, bread, potatoes and meat pies for survival. :)) And for some, I suppose vodka. After Yaroslavl, I will not touch this poison for a long time!



2. The train from Kazan to Moscow was more modern. For this journey, I picked second class, a private room with four bunks. Of course, it was much nicer, and I was in a room with all females. Here's one of my bunk mates - a Russian fashionista with a sullen expression for the entire 12 hour train ride. All of the women were friendly, but there were language barriers so conversation was almost impossible. On the theme of trains, I attended a hockey game in Yaroslavl, where the local team is named "Lokomotiv." :) About Russian hockey, I can say it's more calm and civilized than the U.S. version. At least the game I watched - there were almost no fist fights. In most NHL games in the U.S., numerous brawls break out each game.



3. After four trips to Russia, I think I have a lot of insight to offer foreigners traveling to the country. Perhaps I'll make a post about it sometime, but the most important thing is to learn the Cyrillic alphabet. Otherwise, you will be completely lost the entire time. In the train station in Moscow, there are almost no signs in English. The alphabet is easy to learn, with many letters and sounds similar to English. It will help you navigate on your own immensely, as a lot of basic Russian and English words overlap, or are very similar.



You'll recall that when I traveled to the Sochi Olympics last year, I took a 24 hour train ride from Moscow to Adler. However, on that journey I was in a private, first class kupe with someone I knew. I've now traveled in all classes of the train - first and second class and dormitory style. Each has something unique to offer. When I arrived in Kazan, I had a long conversation with the hotel manager. I told him how I traveled to the city, and he was in complete amazement that a 42 year old American woman and lawyer would choose to travel in a platzkart. He told me he "hates Russian Railways," and would "rather sit in an airport for 10 hours than take the train." I think this is a bit of an elitist attitude. For me, train travel remains interesting and my impressions of Russian Railways mostly favorable. The most important thing is to research the train on which you will travel. They are not all created equal.

About Kazan, there will be a separate and detailed post. This is now my second favorite city - right behind St. Petersburg.

Do you take the train often? In which class do you travel? Any interesting or unusual experiences with bunk mates? I envision sex, drugs and rock 'n' roll on some of these journeys, especially for train rides lasting several days! :) Share fun stories in the comments. I will be amused and happy to read them.

I'm now back in the USA after a long plane ride home yesterday. Many stories about Russia to follow...stay tuned my dear readers! I've missed communicating with you the past two weeks!

P.S.: All photos in this post were taken on iPhone. Sorry, on this trip I was lazy with the big camera.

Other Train Stories
Romance on the Rails - Wolstzyn, Poland


Sapsan Train to St. Petersburg


American Journey to Sochi: Train Ride from Moscow to Adler

Comments

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I've traveled all ways on the train - 2 person kupe, 4 person kupe and platzkart. Of course, the kupes are nicer, but for me it's a bit strange to be in such close living quarters with strangers. Especially if the kupe has both men and women in it.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I think Alexander was trying to punish and torment me by picking this train. :)) But, I'm adventurous and strong. I survived!

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Yes, this train was very, very old. I traveled on a more modern train when I went from Moscow to Adler, and it was much nicer and better equipped. And also on Sapsan from Peter to Moscow a few times. So, I've been on Russian Railways numerous times. I like train travel.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Sex in a train toilet - horror! :))) I can't even imagine it. Maybe in a 2 person kupe, that's it. Could be romantic. ;) The trains where you have to sit, with no place to sleep, can't be for multi-day journeys, right? They must be for shorter train rides. I did not see any sellers of food at the stations, because this train departed around 10:30 pm and arrived at stops in the middle of the night.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

My most vivid travel impressions are all from Russia. :)

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

It's possible she had some traumatic life experience before she boarded the train. I don't know. She spoke no English and was very quiet. The other women tried to communicate with me in broken English, and through Google translate, but not her. It was just an observation about her facial expression, nothing more.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I have not yet made it to the Urals. Someday!

[7eymour.livejournal.com]

it's very interesting...and good shot women dressed in a sweater with a print...funny

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Hi, thanks! Photos for the post were taken with iPhone, so they aren't the best quality. I agree, the woman's sweater is interesting and very shiny and sparkling. :)

[svat-vladimir.livejournal.com]

And what about VODKA/MISHKA/BALALAIKA ? Is it right for English ?:):)

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Yes, it's the right words. :) About vodka, look here - http://peacetraveler22.livejournal.com/123134.html. :)))

[ixtiandra.livejournal.com]

Why should one human help others? Why the image one gets for free must be free for others? Why does the free culture appear, and the free software, and the free music, and the free art, and the free books?

Nobody knows, for the profit numbers cannot explain the humanity.

Why the intellectual property lawyers created the laws that lead to copyright protection for 70 years after the author's death, without any heirs, so the rightholders are indeterminate or uncontactable?

Easy to say. Because some authors love dead money and hate people alive. Because the copyright monsters removed soul of those authors and placed the profit in its place.

Russian people hate those rightholders. This is why Mr. Sergei Mikhalkov (the famous copyright activist, ex cinema director) is cursed every minute, is blamed as the people's enemy, is called a true Satan in flesh. This is why noone here dares to express his craving for copyright -- and to avoid eternal damnation. This is why the freedom of Creative Commons is so popular around Russian workers and peasants.

Do you pay for the right to copy some intellectual property -- the artistic image of travellers in trains, the wooden carvings in villages, the architecture (of unknown yet copyright-holding authors), the bear sculptures in the parks, the Yeltsin photograph on billboard and the pirated images by Soviet photographers, and the logos, etc, etc? -- There is too much copyright around us. And the rightholders of it want their money right now, even on weekend.

Photographers like blogger Varlamov love to gain money, yet none of them loves to part with money, paying for the right to copy or paying for their models. Because they avoid seeing others around. Because they only have eyes for money.

[andreasrozhnov.livejournal.com]

>I've now traveled in all classes of the train - first and second class and dormitory style
No, you did not. There is one more class which is called 'сидячий'. It's alike sapsan but the worst in comfort as there is no service aboard at all and the time of going from Moscow to Kazan is the same. (12-16 hours).
Here is the photo: http://s39.radikal.ru/i086/0810/2e/45f635e2c528.jpg
But I really won't advise to experience it. Ever-ever. It's the cheapest but hassles between bagged idiots are usual.

[svat-vladimir.livejournal.com]

))))))))))))))))) From uncle Joe whith LOVE ))))))))))))))))

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I think trains with this class are now rare. And how long do people travel like this, sitting straight up? For days, or only short train journeys?

[mik-na.livejournal.com]

This is only a difference of perception (appreciation), I guess. Therefore, tourism is very useful for understanding the "other standards of living and behaviour".

[andreasrozhnov.livejournal.com]

Not so rare. There is a number of trains between Moscow and St.Petersburg which have coaches of this class. It takes about 9 hours to get from Moscow to St.Petersburg on this train.
Also, there is a train from Ufa to Moscow with this type of coach (almost 30 hours). I took it once when I was student. That was unforgettable experience =)

[letberg.livejournal.com]

Thank you for the interesting stories and for tasty style.
As for me, I used to travel by trains in the middle 90-s because of my job. I brought drugs to drugstores, hospitals etc. Sometimes went back with millions of cash on me. (Not incredibly much those times.) Most of the adventures I had on the way St.Petersburg - Pskov (or Gdov, it's near Pskov). The trains departed from SPb, Warsaw Station (now it's a museum) at midnight.
Once I adopted myself and my uncountable bags with drugs in the empty kupe. There was an ashtray and a candle on the table and no one else. Despite my joy, in 5 min before department the kupe was fulfilled with 3 drunken and very noisy lads. They chattered:
- Have you bought Coca-cola?
- No. I'll do.
- You'll be late!
- I'll manage!
- You won't!
One of them perched out the train and ran for Coke.
- He'll be late!
- Let's drag him in!
Then they came out and the train started. I had my journey alone and lighted the candle and smoked. Don't like winos nor Coke.

[maryasha-b.livejournal.com]

It is true that usually Russian people come prepared for a long trip by train: bring cooked food from home, beverages, etc. But you pointed out very important issue when never occurred to me: not everyone is traveling from home or has a chance to buy food before boarding on train. So there are should be some kind of snack bar available, e.g. vendor machines in each other car. I wonder if it possible to write this suggestion to РЖД.

[ruslanviktorov.livejournal.com]

I know what you mean, but as soon as you want to write back, I'll show you what I have not shown before)

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I think most trains have this, my train was just very, very old. Probably the worst train to take from Moscow to Kazan. :)

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I would be uncomfortable in a kupe with all men. I'm glad there were only females in my kupe on the journey back to Moscow. Some readers wrote in the comments that people have sex in the 4 person kupes, in the presence of strangers. I would be so annoyed with this, and have to leave! Disrespectful, esp. if children are present. But I guess some people just don't care. Traveling with strangers can either be really good, or really, really bad! :)

[7eymour.livejournal.com]

I mean contrast between a face of the real woman and the picture on a sweater. It very figuratively and give us know about her character...I wish you more such remarkable photos!

[ilay-original.livejournal.com]

Hello!
Thanks for the thanks ))

It will make little (if any) sense to just take a day train.
The nirvana-like state of mind comes only after a few hundreds of miles and a night in a train, so any trip with duration of less than 24 hours will not make you start really enjoying it (unless it's not the first such experience).

(certainly, my opinion is biased and probably outdated, as I haven't travel with train on a long distance since the beginning of 2000s, when I used a chance to go from St. Pete to Odessa by train.)

Anyway, if I may advise - think of something like taking a coupe from North to South (e.g. Arkhangelsk to Rostov or similar).
Take a decent book. Paper not e-ink )
Some boiled eggs and chicken to eat and share with your fellow passengers.
Some armenian cognac to break the ice and smoothen the discussion.
Some money to buy pirozhki on the stations you will pass (use the chance to step on a platform at any station with stops longer than 5 mins :).
Last but not least - learn Machina Vremeni's 'train talks' lyrics (Машина Времени "Вагонные Споры" - look for it on youtube) ;)

I'm ready to bet - you are going to enjoy such an experience or at least remember it for a lifetime :)

Have a great day!

[aikarpov.livejournal.com]

May be you just need practice :)