Platzkart Adventure!

[peacetraveler22]

Many people often ask me "why Russia?" I can afford to travel to much nicer places and stay in more upscale accommodations, but to me there's no adventure in this. Complete boredom. With Russia, there's always something interesting! A complex puzzle to solve, new experiences each journey, and constant brain explosions and frustration with infrastructure and societal interactions as a whole. When I thought about visiting Kazan for a few days, there were two options to get there. Fly or take Russian Railways. I not only chose the latter, but decided to travel in a platzkart to get a true Russian experience. :) At first, I was a little nervous to ride the train dormitory style by myself. This uneasy feeling arose not from my own thinking, but from Russian friends when I posted a status update on Facebook that I would ride alone in a platzkart on the Railways. Responses included - "why?!?", "brave and wild!" and "are you crazy?" What did I think of the experience?

1. I think it's a good way for foreigners to travel if they wish to interact with locals, but not for comfort. The train from Moscow to Kazan was very old and shitty. Train number is 112мц. Avoid it! I'm not certain, but I think the final destination of the train wasn't Kazan but onward into the depths of Russia. The main problem for me is that it was a night train, and I was completely unprepared. Upon boarding, the lights on the train were out, cut on only for a few minutes when the train took off for the conductor to check tickets. After that, complete darkness. Most passengers immediately went to sleep and remained in silence all night. Besides the echoes of loud snores in the air, there was little movement or motion. No one to talk to, complete darkness, and zero outlets for phones or computers. For twelve hours, I sat in boredom, staring in blackness. I can't sleep in planes, trains, automobiles, or even a bed on most nights.

Salvation came in the wee hours of the morning when I encountered a handsome young man. At the sight of a young Russian face, there's always a glimmer of hope that the person will speak English. I asked him in Russian if he spoke the language, and his face lit up! Yes! For a few hours, we sat and chatted at the tiny table by my bunk. He had spent a summer in America, on the work/travel program sponsored by the U.S. government. Most important, he gave me food. I was starving, carrying with me no food or water for the long ride because I thought all trains had a dining car, where such items can be purchased. This train had nothing. No real food, only a dispenser for hot water. My new friend gave me a homemade meat pie and some instant mashed potatoes. Add hot water, and suddenly hunger pains subsided. So, I learned a proper lesson on how to travel on some Russian trains - bring boiled eggs, bread, potatoes and meat pies for survival. :)) And for some, I suppose vodka. After Yaroslavl, I will not touch this poison for a long time!



2. The train from Kazan to Moscow was more modern. For this journey, I picked second class, a private room with four bunks. Of course, it was much nicer, and I was in a room with all females. Here's one of my bunk mates - a Russian fashionista with a sullen expression for the entire 12 hour train ride. All of the women were friendly, but there were language barriers so conversation was almost impossible. On the theme of trains, I attended a hockey game in Yaroslavl, where the local team is named "Lokomotiv." :) About Russian hockey, I can say it's more calm and civilized than the U.S. version. At least the game I watched - there were almost no fist fights. In most NHL games in the U.S., numerous brawls break out each game.



3. After four trips to Russia, I think I have a lot of insight to offer foreigners traveling to the country. Perhaps I'll make a post about it sometime, but the most important thing is to learn the Cyrillic alphabet. Otherwise, you will be completely lost the entire time. In the train station in Moscow, there are almost no signs in English. The alphabet is easy to learn, with many letters and sounds similar to English. It will help you navigate on your own immensely, as a lot of basic Russian and English words overlap, or are very similar.



You'll recall that when I traveled to the Sochi Olympics last year, I took a 24 hour train ride from Moscow to Adler. However, on that journey I was in a private, first class kupe with someone I knew. I've now traveled in all classes of the train - first and second class and dormitory style. Each has something unique to offer. When I arrived in Kazan, I had a long conversation with the hotel manager. I told him how I traveled to the city, and he was in complete amazement that a 42 year old American woman and lawyer would choose to travel in a platzkart. He told me he "hates Russian Railways," and would "rather sit in an airport for 10 hours than take the train." I think this is a bit of an elitist attitude. For me, train travel remains interesting and my impressions of Russian Railways mostly favorable. The most important thing is to research the train on which you will travel. They are not all created equal.

About Kazan, there will be a separate and detailed post. This is now my second favorite city - right behind St. Petersburg.

Do you take the train often? In which class do you travel? Any interesting or unusual experiences with bunk mates? I envision sex, drugs and rock 'n' roll on some of these journeys, especially for train rides lasting several days! :) Share fun stories in the comments. I will be amused and happy to read them.

I'm now back in the USA after a long plane ride home yesterday. Many stories about Russia to follow...stay tuned my dear readers! I've missed communicating with you the past two weeks!

P.S.: All photos in this post were taken on iPhone. Sorry, on this trip I was lazy with the big camera.

Other Train Stories
Romance on the Rails - Wolstzyn, Poland


Sapsan Train to St. Petersburg


American Journey to Sochi: Train Ride from Moscow to Adler

Comments

[aslan.livejournal.com]

плацкарт это еще нормально, я вот одно время ездил на автобусе из Москвы в Нальчик (Кабардино-Балкария), потому что было дешевле и быстрее, вместо 36 часов всего сутки, но там условия еще хуже, не советую)

[aslan.livejournal.com]

все у тебя впереди, я вообще в 30 лет впервые на поезде поехал)

[aavenger.livejournal.com]

No flea insects or something of a kind? Not an adventure then :))) Kiddin'. Once I had to travel all alone in a whole 2nd class carriage... :)))

[tvoi angel (from livejournal.com)]

Hello!
I can come in LJ only through messages and I'd like read more your stories about Russia.
My name is Tanya.

[ammo1.livejournal.com]

You are very brave! :)
I'm russian, but I never go by pazkart.

p.s. I'm try to study english with your post. :)))

[xilochka.livejournal.com]

I like your post! It's rather interesting to read about Russia from the foreigner's point of view. I love travelling by train and it doesn't matter what kind of class is the carriage. You can look through the window and listen to the music or read a good book and think, think, think.
By the way, now we have much more comfortable 3rd class :)

Russian people are afraid of travelling to non-tourist places via national transport such as railways, that's why they call you a brave person.

Platzkart Adventure!

[livejournal.livejournal.com]

User gjlrfc3 referenced to your post from Platzkart Adventure! (http://gjlrfc3.livejournal.com/5650.html) saying: [...] Оригинал взят у в Platzkart Adventure! [...]

[dmrog.livejournal.com]

Конечно впереди. Поездить по России хочется, а купе выгодно по цене только в двухэтажном поезде.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Привет! Добро пожаловать в мой журнал! :)

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Sounds horrible! :)) Such a long bus ride must have been very uncomfortable!

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

No, I saw no bugs. Maybe in summer they flew in through the open widows, but not in winter. Alone is a 2nd class carriage - this is a luxury! :)

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Hi Tanya! Welcome to my blog. :)

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I think it is more scary to travel to non-tourist Russian places by roads/cars, at least based on my own personal experience. :) I also love train travel, but at night it was quite boring. There is nothing to see out of the window except blackness.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Cool! I hope my journal helps you study English. :) If you have questions about the language, just ask me. I will try to help.

[ammo1.livejournal.com]

Thank You!

[aslan.livejournal.com]

под Новый год, когда мои земляки собираются домой на короткие каникулы, водители продают билетов больше, чем есть мест, и бывает, что едут стоя! или располагаются под лежачим местом, из которых состоят места в автобусе. возможность сходить в туалет или нормально перекусить только на остановках раз в 4-5 часов, едет автобус 24 часа, при этом ты делишь лежачее место с другим, незнакомым пассажиром, если едешь один, и еще включают в телике, который висит в автобусе какой-нибудь дерьмовый отечественный сериал, который хочешь ты того или нет приходится слушать. вот такой дорожный хардкор, после таких поездок зарекся пользоваться таким транспортом, теперь еду только на поезде, плацкарт можно считать благом по сравнению с этим.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Yes, extreme! Only for the hardcore traveler. I prefer platzkart. :))

[aavenger.livejournal.com]

It was a bit creepy: piercing through the snow in the darkness :)))

[ingwariusz.livejournal.com]

That looks like a real adventure. Actually it is good that now various electronic devices are available, it helps not to pay so much attention if the surrounding is unpleasant. At least I do it that way, for any case I have an addional usb power bank which is able to charge a smartphone at least three times.
I have read that you tried the Sapsan train before - so you could feel the difference :) I personally find the Allegro train to Finland much more pleasant, at least they have internet and free water on board. The views from window are also much more interesting. But both trains were spoiled by security checks, especially Allegro - they made people board it from a smaller hall instead of using the main railstation building (as usually in Russia its not written there properly how to get to the platform), somebody travelling for the first time can miss the train this way if coming not early enough.
It is impossible to board the Sapsan without security check and showing the ticket before boarding. I am living in Germany and it looks funny for me because sometimes I use the similar ICE trains for short rides inside the city, freely entering them, just like a metro train :)

Re: Это ещё что...

[sbu-kgb.livejournal.com]

Да , действительно: что с ними случилось? Вы ездите их убивать, а они ещё и недовольство проявляют!

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I think next time I visit St. Petersburg, I will try to take the train to Finland. I've never been to any of the Nordic countries. Of course, the Sapsan is extreme luxury compared to this train I took to Kazan! It was really horrible, but I'll remember it always. :)

[ingwariusz.livejournal.com]

I really love the Allegro train, no fancy stuff inside, just a comfortable train with border formalities on board, so the whole trip till Helsinki is a bit faster than to Moscow and till the first station in Finland it takes just 1,5 hours. It is possible to get a cheap (39 euros one way) ticket for the early morning departure. Nordic countries are expensive, especially Norway, but some relative cheap places to stay could be still found, of course the service quality will not be bad. I can recommend northern Norway in summer, for example the Lofoten archipelago which is "behind" the arctic circle. The landscapes and midnight sun are full of magic there!

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Actually, I really want to do a big road trip in Iceland. But as you mentioned, it's so expensive. :( For me, it's cheap to travel in Russia now because the dollar is so strong against the ruble and airfares from Washington, DC to Moscow are inexpensive (only $500 USD round trip).

[ingwariusz.livejournal.com]

The exchange rate makes a difference, same as the overall economic situation which influences the demand. One or two years ago the hotel prices in St. Petersburg were same as in Finland or even higher (especially during summer seasons), but now it has changed.

[ivankravtsov.livejournal.com]

Good fiction:)