Platzkart Adventure!

[peacetraveler22]

Many people often ask me "why Russia?" I can afford to travel to much nicer places and stay in more upscale accommodations, but to me there's no adventure in this. Complete boredom. With Russia, there's always something interesting! A complex puzzle to solve, new experiences each journey, and constant brain explosions and frustration with infrastructure and societal interactions as a whole. When I thought about visiting Kazan for a few days, there were two options to get there. Fly or take Russian Railways. I not only chose the latter, but decided to travel in a platzkart to get a true Russian experience. :) At first, I was a little nervous to ride the train dormitory style by myself. This uneasy feeling arose not from my own thinking, but from Russian friends when I posted a status update on Facebook that I would ride alone in a platzkart on the Railways. Responses included - "why?!?", "brave and wild!" and "are you crazy?" What did I think of the experience?

1. I think it's a good way for foreigners to travel if they wish to interact with locals, but not for comfort. The train from Moscow to Kazan was very old and shitty. Train number is 112мц. Avoid it! I'm not certain, but I think the final destination of the train wasn't Kazan but onward into the depths of Russia. The main problem for me is that it was a night train, and I was completely unprepared. Upon boarding, the lights on the train were out, cut on only for a few minutes when the train took off for the conductor to check tickets. After that, complete darkness. Most passengers immediately went to sleep and remained in silence all night. Besides the echoes of loud snores in the air, there was little movement or motion. No one to talk to, complete darkness, and zero outlets for phones or computers. For twelve hours, I sat in boredom, staring in blackness. I can't sleep in planes, trains, automobiles, or even a bed on most nights.

Salvation came in the wee hours of the morning when I encountered a handsome young man. At the sight of a young Russian face, there's always a glimmer of hope that the person will speak English. I asked him in Russian if he spoke the language, and his face lit up! Yes! For a few hours, we sat and chatted at the tiny table by my bunk. He had spent a summer in America, on the work/travel program sponsored by the U.S. government. Most important, he gave me food. I was starving, carrying with me no food or water for the long ride because I thought all trains had a dining car, where such items can be purchased. This train had nothing. No real food, only a dispenser for hot water. My new friend gave me a homemade meat pie and some instant mashed potatoes. Add hot water, and suddenly hunger pains subsided. So, I learned a proper lesson on how to travel on some Russian trains - bring boiled eggs, bread, potatoes and meat pies for survival. :)) And for some, I suppose vodka. After Yaroslavl, I will not touch this poison for a long time!



2. The train from Kazan to Moscow was more modern. For this journey, I picked second class, a private room with four bunks. Of course, it was much nicer, and I was in a room with all females. Here's one of my bunk mates - a Russian fashionista with a sullen expression for the entire 12 hour train ride. All of the women were friendly, but there were language barriers so conversation was almost impossible. On the theme of trains, I attended a hockey game in Yaroslavl, where the local team is named "Lokomotiv." :) About Russian hockey, I can say it's more calm and civilized than the U.S. version. At least the game I watched - there were almost no fist fights. In most NHL games in the U.S., numerous brawls break out each game.



3. After four trips to Russia, I think I have a lot of insight to offer foreigners traveling to the country. Perhaps I'll make a post about it sometime, but the most important thing is to learn the Cyrillic alphabet. Otherwise, you will be completely lost the entire time. In the train station in Moscow, there are almost no signs in English. The alphabet is easy to learn, with many letters and sounds similar to English. It will help you navigate on your own immensely, as a lot of basic Russian and English words overlap, or are very similar.



You'll recall that when I traveled to the Sochi Olympics last year, I took a 24 hour train ride from Moscow to Adler. However, on that journey I was in a private, first class kupe with someone I knew. I've now traveled in all classes of the train - first and second class and dormitory style. Each has something unique to offer. When I arrived in Kazan, I had a long conversation with the hotel manager. I told him how I traveled to the city, and he was in complete amazement that a 42 year old American woman and lawyer would choose to travel in a platzkart. He told me he "hates Russian Railways," and would "rather sit in an airport for 10 hours than take the train." I think this is a bit of an elitist attitude. For me, train travel remains interesting and my impressions of Russian Railways mostly favorable. The most important thing is to research the train on which you will travel. They are not all created equal.

About Kazan, there will be a separate and detailed post. This is now my second favorite city - right behind St. Petersburg.

Do you take the train often? In which class do you travel? Any interesting or unusual experiences with bunk mates? I envision sex, drugs and rock 'n' roll on some of these journeys, especially for train rides lasting several days! :) Share fun stories in the comments. I will be amused and happy to read them.

I'm now back in the USA after a long plane ride home yesterday. Many stories about Russia to follow...stay tuned my dear readers! I've missed communicating with you the past two weeks!

P.S.: All photos in this post were taken on iPhone. Sorry, on this trip I was lazy with the big camera.

Other Train Stories
Romance on the Rails - Wolstzyn, Poland


Sapsan Train to St. Petersburg


American Journey to Sochi: Train Ride from Moscow to Adler

Comments

Miami!

[onkel-hans.livejournal.com]

Miami! Once I was riding on the subway. Enters an elegant woman looking like a super-lady - in a natural fur coat - and goes on talking on the phone in Russian. She is saying, Bella, you know, Benny has been popped Sunday in Miami! Right in his hotel room!

Miami-2

[onkel-hans.livejournal.com]

Property n Miami has been very cheap lately.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Yes, most basic problems and needs can be solved despite language barriers. I can read Cyrillic alphabet and know only basic Russian phrases. It's enough to get by and find places, etc. But not enough to have an in depth conversation with a native Russian who doesn't speak English. On this journey, google translate helped a lot on my iPhone, esp. when I was walking in some cities alone (w/out my Russian friend). However, on the train my phone was dead and couldn't be charged.

Re: Miami-2

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I do not like this city! It's too busy and artificial for me.

Re: Miami-2

[onkel-hans.livejournal.com]

I came several times in FL, in the summer. It was unbearable: from the hotel to taxi, from the taxi to a restaurant. Could have stayed at home. But business in those hotels.

Then I started to come there in October. That was very pleasant.

[kremlin-curant.livejournal.com]

Lucky you. But it is very interesting story you presented. Another peacetraveler from Korea wasn't so lucky. She traveled by bike and was hit by moving truck in the northern Russia. After she was accused by Russian people as a culprit of the accident. Finally she left the country and now call it the worst country in the world.
I don't think you would call it the same. You and one more peacetraveler Dennis Rodman both love the authoritarian regimes to travel.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I read the story of that cyclist who visited, and was injured in, Murmansk. She is much braver than me. I would not travel to the depths of Russia alone as a female traveler.

[harlampiev.livejournal.com]

Youre newbe, Kazan- Moskow, you can stay at one leg.=)))))
Try Moskow- Vladivostok, at the platczcart, side upper bunk next to the closet door. Hard quest for hard peoples only.=)))

[harlampiev.livejournal.com]

Ciclist more stupider, than you. Winter road at russian north is hard test to 4*4 drivers, not for one fooly in cicle. She is great lucky- that she returnes alive.

[imiroshnikov.livejournal.com]

какие то "русские друзья" у вас не true

[kto-ti.livejournal.com]

you are in fact brave! I heard sometimes one might get robbed at night. I've been gone for 15 years though, perhaps it's gotten better safety-wise.

I remember traveling in the platzkart when I was 7. my brother wanted the top bunk and fell off it in the night.
I did it again from Moscow to Odessa when I was 10, and that was way more fun since a slew of us were traveling together. 24 hours later every time I set down anywhere, I felt the shaking and the monotonous train wheel beat.

[south-of-broad.livejournal.com]

I am just happy to see you alive and well. ))

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

I'm so happy to be back in America! There's no place like home, and two weeks in Russia is enough! :))

[south-of-broad.livejournal.com]

It's her blog she can use any language she wants. You on the other are exceptionally rude to someone who has never said a bad word to anyone. Is that what you call " Russian culture'?

[south-of-broad.livejournal.com]

Feel the difference)

[andruhon.livejournal.com]

Well, that's a lottery in most cases, but definitely NO with РЖД. Say I used to travel by plane in Russia using the new passport (with the same name, but with a different number). It is required to have a photo ID when you using a plane in New Zealand, but they usually do not ask any documents at all.

[kremlin-curant.livejournal.com]

You mean if somebody is stupid you can easily hurt him/her and then call him/her the criminal but not you?!

[pasha1980.livejournal.com]

Great story, thank you for sharing. You are an extraordinary woman.
And you look good in the picture, too.
Keep it up!

[liver22.livejournal.com]

Hockey in Europe (Russia, Finland, Sweden, Czech Republic and in other countries) is less aggressive than in the NHL, so, one reason for this is that the rules are more strict refereeing, in addition (if I haven't missed) by the rules of the game (hockey) in Europe and North America have some differences.
In addition, the playground in the NHL is a bit smaller than Europe (this also influences the aggressiveness of hockey, because less area, the higher the probability of contact between players, and thus more likely fights).

Few, perhaps, interesting facts:

In Australia, Israel, Mexico, United Arab Emirates and even in South Africa there are ice hockey teams, and this teams have a chance sometime in the future to participate in the Winter Olympics hockey tournament to beat team Canada in the final by a score of 7-0 and take the gold! :-)

[harlampiev.livejournal.com]

Try to wrote science-erotic-fantastic novels. You have good- working imagination.

[kremlin-curant.livejournal.com]

Actually I wrote the previous comment just because I'm not sure it is a good idea to entertain yourself in some countries which rulers the many people worldwide compare to Hitler and where lot of people opposing the government are killed, tortured and smeared as traitors and fifth column only because they don't agree with the rulers opinions.

[kremlin-curant.livejournal.com]

This was exactly your suggestion the biker is guilty yourself because she is stupid. The driver need not be blamed on at all. Why? Because he is smart?

[harlampiev.livejournal.com]

Try to wrote science-erotic-fantastic novels. You have good- working imagination.

[kremlin-curant.livejournal.com]

Are you a copy machine? Looks like.

Russian safari:-)

[vovik01.livejournal.com]

I think you are crazy :-) But safari always safari:-) In Africa or in Russia:-)))