Platzkart Adventure!

[peacetraveler22]

Many people often ask me "why Russia?" I can afford to travel to much nicer places and stay in more upscale accommodations, but to me there's no adventure in this. Complete boredom. With Russia, there's always something interesting! A complex puzzle to solve, new experiences each journey, and constant brain explosions and frustration with infrastructure and societal interactions as a whole. When I thought about visiting Kazan for a few days, there were two options to get there. Fly or take Russian Railways. I not only chose the latter, but decided to travel in a platzkart to get a true Russian experience. :) At first, I was a little nervous to ride the train dormitory style by myself. This uneasy feeling arose not from my own thinking, but from Russian friends when I posted a status update on Facebook that I would ride alone in a platzkart on the Railways. Responses included - "why?!?", "brave and wild!" and "are you crazy?" What did I think of the experience?

1. I think it's a good way for foreigners to travel if they wish to interact with locals, but not for comfort. The train from Moscow to Kazan was very old and shitty. Train number is 112мц. Avoid it! I'm not certain, but I think the final destination of the train wasn't Kazan but onward into the depths of Russia. The main problem for me is that it was a night train, and I was completely unprepared. Upon boarding, the lights on the train were out, cut on only for a few minutes when the train took off for the conductor to check tickets. After that, complete darkness. Most passengers immediately went to sleep and remained in silence all night. Besides the echoes of loud snores in the air, there was little movement or motion. No one to talk to, complete darkness, and zero outlets for phones or computers. For twelve hours, I sat in boredom, staring in blackness. I can't sleep in planes, trains, automobiles, or even a bed on most nights.

Salvation came in the wee hours of the morning when I encountered a handsome young man. At the sight of a young Russian face, there's always a glimmer of hope that the person will speak English. I asked him in Russian if he spoke the language, and his face lit up! Yes! For a few hours, we sat and chatted at the tiny table by my bunk. He had spent a summer in America, on the work/travel program sponsored by the U.S. government. Most important, he gave me food. I was starving, carrying with me no food or water for the long ride because I thought all trains had a dining car, where such items can be purchased. This train had nothing. No real food, only a dispenser for hot water. My new friend gave me a homemade meat pie and some instant mashed potatoes. Add hot water, and suddenly hunger pains subsided. So, I learned a proper lesson on how to travel on some Russian trains - bring boiled eggs, bread, potatoes and meat pies for survival. :)) And for some, I suppose vodka. After Yaroslavl, I will not touch this poison for a long time!



2. The train from Kazan to Moscow was more modern. For this journey, I picked second class, a private room with four bunks. Of course, it was much nicer, and I was in a room with all females. Here's one of my bunk mates - a Russian fashionista with a sullen expression for the entire 12 hour train ride. All of the women were friendly, but there were language barriers so conversation was almost impossible. On the theme of trains, I attended a hockey game in Yaroslavl, where the local team is named "Lokomotiv." :) About Russian hockey, I can say it's more calm and civilized than the U.S. version. At least the game I watched - there were almost no fist fights. In most NHL games in the U.S., numerous brawls break out each game.



3. After four trips to Russia, I think I have a lot of insight to offer foreigners traveling to the country. Perhaps I'll make a post about it sometime, but the most important thing is to learn the Cyrillic alphabet. Otherwise, you will be completely lost the entire time. In the train station in Moscow, there are almost no signs in English. The alphabet is easy to learn, with many letters and sounds similar to English. It will help you navigate on your own immensely, as a lot of basic Russian and English words overlap, or are very similar.



You'll recall that when I traveled to the Sochi Olympics last year, I took a 24 hour train ride from Moscow to Adler. However, on that journey I was in a private, first class kupe with someone I knew. I've now traveled in all classes of the train - first and second class and dormitory style. Each has something unique to offer. When I arrived in Kazan, I had a long conversation with the hotel manager. I told him how I traveled to the city, and he was in complete amazement that a 42 year old American woman and lawyer would choose to travel in a platzkart. He told me he "hates Russian Railways," and would "rather sit in an airport for 10 hours than take the train." I think this is a bit of an elitist attitude. For me, train travel remains interesting and my impressions of Russian Railways mostly favorable. The most important thing is to research the train on which you will travel. They are not all created equal.

About Kazan, there will be a separate and detailed post. This is now my second favorite city - right behind St. Petersburg.

Do you take the train often? In which class do you travel? Any interesting or unusual experiences with bunk mates? I envision sex, drugs and rock 'n' roll on some of these journeys, especially for train rides lasting several days! :) Share fun stories in the comments. I will be amused and happy to read them.

I'm now back in the USA after a long plane ride home yesterday. Many stories about Russia to follow...stay tuned my dear readers! I've missed communicating with you the past two weeks!

P.S.: All photos in this post were taken on iPhone. Sorry, on this trip I was lazy with the big camera.

Other Train Stories
Romance on the Rails - Wolstzyn, Poland


Sapsan Train to St. Petersburg


American Journey to Sochi: Train Ride from Moscow to Adler

Comments

[mb-b.livejournal.com]

"After Yaroslavl, I will touch this poison for a long time!"
I assume you meant "After Yaroslavl, I will not touch this poison for a long time!" Don't confuse us Russians any more than we are.

My own fun ride was in summer of 1982. Return from a month-long college boot camp in Smolensk region, a local train to Smolensk and a 5-hour wait for the Moscow train... by the time it pulled in half the people couldn't stand upright. As a teetotaler, I secured a 3rd shelf (if you noticed those, above the upper bunks, they're normally for baggage) and could safely watch the proceedings. Mind you, we were college kids, a notch above plain rank and file, but still-
BTW, Smolensk (at least as I remember it from then) is/was? well worth visiting. Beautiful churches wherever you look.

I hear that modern trains are mostly to be found in Europe and Japan. China seems to be catching up too. Years ago I read an article about a new high-altitude line China-Tibet built on permafrost, with breathing oxygen available in the cars... that would be interesting.

The problem with Amtrak is that it's a monopoly, so sleeping accommodations are outrageously expensive; and it doesn't own the tracks (freight companies usually do, so outside the stretch Boston-Washington Amtrak trains are rarely on time). But if there's a baggage car, traveling with a bike is nice: That's how I went down to Blue Ridge. Used to be only $15 extra charge for the bike box, but now I think it's more like $25.

[peacetraveler22.livejournal.com]

Thank you for the correction! You know I read all my texts very carefully for errors, but sometimes I miss things. Of course, I meant "I will NOT touch this poison for a long time." :)) About Amtrak, it's necessary for me to take a ride sometime to compare with Russian Railways, but it's not so cheap to take the train in the USA, for the reason you mentioned (monopoly). Have a nice weekend!